1990 - d'Yquem, Sauternes

Pale to medium gold-amber in color, the 1990 d'Yquem charges out with powerful notes of cigar box, toffee, honey-coated walnuts, and dried apricots. After a little swirling, the nose reveals fragrant scents of sandalwood, candied orange peel, and nutmeg. The palate is rich and unctuous, packed with spicy layers and a decadently oily texture with plenty of freshness to balance, finishing long and opulent. The alcohol is 12.7% and the residual sugar 126 g/l.

The estate that led the way in Sauternes, producing only sweet wine from 1847 onwards, owned by the Lur Saluces family since 1785, and named 1st Growth Supérieur in 1855, in reflection of prices that were regularly 4,000 francs and above, the highest in Bordeaux. Today in the hands of LVMH (although still Alexandre de Lur Saluces in 1990), this is a stunning wine full of fleshy opulent pineapple, apricot and tangerine fruit laced with butterscotch, creme brulee, saffron and finessed fresh acidities. Insanely good at 45 years old, and no question that it will keep on delivering from here. Even better than when I last had it three years ago.

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose (earlier bottles have been far more restrained) but completely unevolved and a bit musclebound on the palate. May ultimately merit a higher score.